10.31.2008 | 6:34 am | Pensive Traveller
It’s amazing how quickly you get used to things. What seemed so exotic and incredible a month ago has now become as normal as my old life back in London. The view from my 21st floor office over the verdant French Concession and silvery high-rise business district used to make me double-take whenever I passed the window; now I barely give it a second thought. The smell of Chinese cooking is now so familiar that I hardly notice it.
So it’s refreshing to be reminded once in a while that I’m actually in a foreign country, and shouldn’t be so complacent. Strangely, my biggest reminder that I’m in China came at a Lebanese restaurant. I was out with a French friend last night, and we came across a row of restaurants on Hengshan Lu. It was a choice between Papa John’s Pizza, Brazilian steak, or Lebanese. Starved of hummous and falafel, we chose the latter. The maitre d’ escorted us up a sumptuous staircase and into the wood-paneled restaurant, where the air was thick and sweet with shisha, and Middle Eastern music jangled. Aside from the Chinese waiting staff, you would think it was Beirut, not downtown Shanghai.
We pored over the menu as if we hadn’t eaten for days. Falafel, tahini, stuffed vine leaves, shish taour… It was heavenly. I used to eat Lebanese food fairly regularly in London, so the flavours weren’t new. But it was such a welcome change from months of noodles and ma la tofu. And strangely, it made me even more aware that I was in China, by having a couple of hours ‘away’, as it were.
Oddly, the same doesn’t go for McDonalds, which I am slightly ashamed to admit that I’ve visited several times in Shanghai. I guess it’s because Lebanese is a culture that is just as foreign to me as Chinese, so the contrast was more acute.
On a different note, it’s Halloween today, and, with no less than 40 parties going on around the city, it’s hard to pick which one to go to. There’s a boat trip on the murky Huangpu, various costume parties, and contests for best dressed witch. I’ll report back next week…
10.30.2008 | 12:38 pm | World Destinations
The image of a Caribbean paradise holiday – pure azure oceans, creamy white sand, nodding palm trees - has become a sort of cliché. But clichés are clichés only because they’re true, right? Nothing could be closer to the paradise dream than St. Lucia. It may be small, but it’s perfectly formed, and has so much to offer.
What’s great about St. Lucia is the fact that it’s still relatively quiet and un-touristy, unlike its bigger Caribbean cousins. New resorts are opening up over the island, but it still retains an unspoilt vibe. However, like its neighbours, St. Lucia has the relaxed atmosphere that makes this part of the world so popular.
St. Lucia has a tropical climate with trade winds coming in off the ocean. The wet season is from June to September and the dry season from February to May. The average temperature is 25 Celsius (77 Fahrenheit) all year round. So right now would be a great time to visit.
A really good way to see the island is actually not on St. Lucia itself. A boat trip off the shore affords incredible views of mountains swathed in green forest, and palm trees skirting the beaches. Water taxis are easy to come by, and cheap. One of the best routes takes you from Rodney Bay to the old town of Soufriere with its sulphur springs. Once there, hire a guide to take you to the springs – the legacy of an old volcano.
If you visit in early summer, you’ll be there for the Jazz Festival. Don’t worry if you don’t like jazz – there’s also r’n’b, soul and hip hop, and the island really comes alive with parties and gatherings.
Accommodation on the island ranges from luxury to budget, so you’ll be able to find something to suit your price range. If you have some serious money to spend, check out the Anse Chastenet – a celebrity favourite. It’s so popular that it’s often booked up a year in advance, so it’s probably not the best idea for a last-minute getaway. Neighbouring resort Jade Mountain was built with honeymooners in mind; 24 sanctuary rooms each with an infinity pool and sunken bath.
For the middle budget, the Royal by Rex Resort is a good choice, with suite rooms, poolside bars and a good atmosphere. If money is tight, try the four-star Coco Palm. Rooms start at around £70 per night.
For the cheapest flights to St. Lucia visit FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.28.2008 | 7:47 am | Features
We set out at nightfall through the streets. The crowds were collecting in the city centre under a hushed clamour that came from years of doing this - years that never spoiled it. The music came first: a din of mangled trumpets and dull drums to begin with, but, coming nearer, it fell into sombre, jolting melodies like a concertina split into seven instruments. Armagura, my friend Peña told me — song of bitterness. The parade was approaching. Above the dark heads I caught sight of the crucifix swaying, ten feet in the air. Peña lifted me onto his back, and I saw the forest of blue pointed hoods swarming in front of the cross. Hundreds and hundreds of them - the horrifying Nazarenes in their cowls - leading the cross towards the Cathedral. Their whole bodies were covered by capes tied at the waist with gold cord. White gloves shuffled for a grip on the cross, which lurched violently along its path. The papier-mâché Christ nodded a couple of feet clear of my face as it passed. Blood the colour of coffee had been trickled lavishly over the face and limbs.
The onlookers pressed towards the cross, but were oddly quiet, save for a couple of dolorous wails from old women. The crowds at other Holy Week parades had been raucous, especially on Palm Sunday - los Ramas - when a float displaying a statue of Jesus on a donkey had been carried, listing, through the plaza while palm leaves were beaten against the curved road.
I watched the Nazarenes until the crucifix and the last of the blue Klannish hoods faded into the prickling dusk. Peña suggested beer, so I followed him away from the square.
Cardenal Niño de Guevara brought hoods to Seville in the seventeenth century, Peña told me when we reached a café. All colours - black for the Javieres brotherhood, bright blue for the Hiniestas. The penitentes have no cones inside, so their hoods lie between their shoulder blades. The men who carry the floats are called costaleros, and should never be seen . In Huelva, a small town to the East, the costaleros have to crawl on the ground to get the floats under the gates of the Reina Victoria district. Heavy? Peña sniffed. Half a tonne. It is with this casual woe that Peña, like many Spaniards, treats his problems. But when it comes to the pains of the Christ or the Virgin, his emotions are profound.
Each of the fifty-seven brotherhoods, or parishes, of Seville has a Virgén, all equal in their beauty and craftsmanship. Some represent Mary in loss, some in hope, others in bitterness, but she is always displayed on a gilded float, heavy with tasseled brocade canopies, bristling with thousands of candles filling the air with the stench of wax.
During the evening processions, flowers, money, jewellery and prayers on crumpled paper are thrown onto the float as it sways past. In the old Vera-Cruz district I watched the parade with Peña. Their Virgén was robed in black velvet with gold overlay and wore an elaborate silver crown; the sixty-strong brotherhood had piled the float with white carnations. It seemed that every person at the ceremony genuinely loved the Virgén. There was no cynicism, no embarrassment. The most devout bowed down and cried out, the more sedate nodded to the float as it passed, or nudged hats. Even for me, a non-believer, Holy Week in Seville depicts true faith and a rare, pure respect for older, higher things.
For the cheapest flights to Seville visit FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.27.2008 | 2:19 pm | European Destinations
Istanbul
Poised between Europe and Asia, Istanbul’s unique position and rich history make it a fascinating city to visit, either for a weekend or a daytrip from a Turkish resort. While not the capital, Istanbul (or Constantinople, as it was formerly called) is Turkey’s busiest city. It boasts some of the world’s most impressive mosques - their minarets jostling for space with the modern high-rises - and many Byzantine ruins.
The best time to visit Istanbul is in late spring or early autumn, so right now would be perfect. Between April and June and between September and October, it’s warm without being humid. There’s a small chance of rain, but it won’t be a holiday-killer.
A ferry ride is a good way to start your exploration of Istanbul, followed by a walk along the divide that separates the Old City from the modern European part. Getting around the city is easy, and there are lots of options. Istanbul’s public transport is are cheap and reliable - trams, buses, ferries, metro, and cabs. Trams are slow, but give you time to scope out the sights. The metro system is constantly being upgraded and is perfectly usable.
If you’re interested in history, you won’t be bored in Istanbul. The Hippodrome is a good starting point for a historical exploration. It was built by the rulers of Byzantium and was used for chariot race. It was built around 1450 BC, and many of the artifacts have since been removed, but it’s still an impressive site.
The Aya Sofya was once the greatest church in Christendom. After the fall of Constantinople it became a mosque once again. Another gem of Islamic architecture, the Blue Mosque is Istanbul’s icon. It’s the Iznik tiles on the interior that are responsible for its moniker.
If you enjoy shopping, you have to check out the Great Bazaar. It’s a shopper’s Mecca, and you’ll find everything here. Really, everything.
Attaturk Airport is 23km (14 miles) from downtown Istanbul (Sultanahmet), but a taxi will get you to the city quickly. There’s an airport bus which is cheaper, but it takes up to an hour.
For the cheapest flights to Turkey visit FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.23.2008 | 8:50 am | World Destinations
If the thought of a long, dark English winter fills you with dread, you may be planning to escape the cold with a trip to the southern hemisphere. South Africa’s beautiful climate, beaches and interesting cities make it a very attractive prospect.
Cape Town is possibly one of the most geographically lovely cities in the world, with Table Mountain behind it and the ocean in front. A mixture of historical and modern buildings, a strong economy and plenty of culture add to the appeal.
Summer weather is warm and sunny, while winters are cold and rainy – not unlike the Mediterranean. The city is famous for the ‘Cape Doctor’ winds which blow in off the sea and freshen the air.
The Kirstenbosch botanical gardens are possibly the most impressive in the world. Covering over 500 hectares of Table Mountain they have 9000 of Southern Africa’s 22,000 plant species. Hot spots are the elevated fragrance garden, a Braille Trail and a sculpture garden. Also worth a look is the Cape of Good Hope Nature Preserve which can be seen either on foot or on a vehicle tour. Very popular with visitors are the cable cards to the top of Table Mountain.
Another attraction is the Castle of Good Hope. It was built over 350 years ago as a defence post for Cape Town, but never saw any battles. Today it houses the William Feur Collection of historical pieces.
As for museums, probably the most important is the Museum & Planetarium - South Africa’s oldest museum. It has fossilised human footprint thought to be 115,000 years old. The South African National Gallery is also worth visiting. Some smaller museums you might like are the District Six Museum and the Cape Medical Museum with its tribute to Dr. James Barne who posed as a man to escape prejudice in the early days of medicine.
Robben Island was declared a UN World Heritage Site in 1999, and was where Nelson Mandela spent his years in prison. Guided tours are led by former inmates so you’ll get a vivid picture of what life was like for the incarcerated. Make sure you book your tour in advance.
Cape Town’s nightlife is plentiful. Clubs only start filling up at 11pm and are open all night seven days a week. A good evening itinerary is to watch the sun set over the Atlantic at a bar in Green Point or Kloof Street, then head to one of the many bars on Long Street.
Many flights go directly to Cape Town International Airport, but some stop over in Johannesburg. When you arrive at the airport there are shuttle buses that will take you to the city. Once you’re there, the easiest ways to get around are bus or taxi, but buses don’t run after dark.
For the cheapest flights to Cape Town visit FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.23.2008 | 8:46 am | Travel Doctor
Dear Travel Doctor,
I’m about to take a long haul flight to Australia, and I’ve heard in the news lately that airlines are witnessing more and more incidents of ‘air rage’. What should I do if I encounter this on my flight, and how can I stop myself succumbing to it myself? I’m a smoker, and twenty four hours without a cigarette isn’t a prospect I’m relishing…
- Graham, London
Hi Graham,
Maybe people are becoming less tolerant these days, but you just didn’t hear about air-rage until recently. It’s actually a really serious offense, and can put lives at risk. So let’s make sure you don’t fall foul of it!
Drinking alcohol is one of the main perpetrators, it has to be said. Having said that, other things can trigger the red mist, including nicotine withdrawal, claustrophobia, arguments between passengers, fear of flying and frustration with airline staff.
On the nicotine front, stock up on some gum or patches to assuage the pangs. I shouldn’t have to say this, but under no circumstances must you think about sneaking off for a ciggie in the toilets. That’s just common sense, right? Sorry – I had to say it! Also pretty obvious but necessary to mention – don’t drink to excess while flying. Better still, don’t drink at all. It will dehydrate you and make you cranky.
But what to do if the air rage comes from someone else? It’s scary to think that someone could go postal on your flight – running amok, even trying to wrench the aircraft doors open. Don’t worry too much. Inflight staff receive professional training to deal with air rage. Leave it to them. However, if an incident happens close to you and they don’t see, attract their attention as soon as possible using the call button or good old fashioned leg work.
If a fellow passenger gets angry and it escalates before the cabin crew can get to you, keep calm. Don’t argue with the person. Try and douse the flame of their frustration with soft words. It’s best not to intervene, but you may want to step in if someone is physically attacking another person, or trying to open the aircraft door.
Here comes the super-hero part. If absolutely necessary, try and get the perpetrator to the floor so they can be restrained. Sounds rather dramatic, and hopefully it won’t get to this, but it’s good to be prepared.
Good luck, and don’t worry too much. Air rage is relatively rare.
For the cheapest flights to world destinations, check FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.21.2008 | 9:20 am | Features
Before I went to India, I decided that if I stopped by Varanasi I would make a point of visiting one of the burning ghats. So when I arrived at the holy city with my Dutch travelling friend, Roel, I suggested that we go to Manikarnika, the largest of the two cremation places.
Roel shared my morbid fascination, so we got into a cycle rickshaw. We were dropped off somewhere that wasn’t Manikarnika. The driver had taken his thirty rupees and scarpered before we realised. Luckily the locals were generous with directions, and soon the air became dense with sandalwood. We started to see piles of logs fifteen feet high, and shops selling lurid orange, pink and gold fabric. From the view we’d had of the ghat at sunrise we knew that these were the blankets the dead were wrapped in for their final wash in the Ganges.
Suddenly there was a flash of gold ahead of us. Six men were carrying a body resting on a bamboo grid on their shoulders. They crossed the street and entered the ghat.
Then there was someone at our side.
“You want to see?” a young man in a red sweater asked. “You want to see ghat?”
I turned to Roel. He nodded.
At the young man’s instruction, we followed the cortège down the concrete slope that formed the entrance to the ghat. On the right, a man was crouching, shaving his head.
“Oldest son of parents.” our guide explained. “His parents are dead, so he shaves off his hair.”
The body ahead of us was taken down the ghat steps and lowered into the river, surrounded by discarded marigold garlands, coloured blankets, bilge and scavenging dogs. Cows snuffled morosely among the rubbish bags.
“Each body is washed.” said our guide, gesturing proudly as if he were displaying the treasures of a kingdom. “Washed in Ganga, all sins gone. You want to come up?”
I felt uneasy. Around us, workers and male family members milled, and we were in the way. Not that they made us feel unwelcome; they didn’t seem to notice us. It just felt odd. I couldn’t imagine mingling with the crowds at an English funeral, with the sole purpose of watching what was going on.
We followed the guide past bodies queuing for their river bath, and mounted a small platform. From here we had a view of the pyres. The nearest had almost finished burning.
Our guide explained how each pyre was constructed, and mentioned the six groups of people that weren’t allowed to be cremated: “The lepers, the measles, the pregnant lady, the child less than twelve years, the holy man, and the person bitten by snake.”
Those people are tied to a stone slab and put straight into the Ganges. Many wash up on the east bank, where dogs forage and vultures circle.
As we watched, a worker piled logs into a rectangular shape, filling in the gaps with smaller branches. Then, a body was disrobed of its mourning blankets to reveal a white wrapping. It was placed on the pyre and covered with more wood.
The absurdity of the situation rounded on me in slow-motion. In the West, or at least in my part of it, the treatment and disposal of a dead body is imbued with a secrecy so reverent that it becomes taboo. Grief and respect close the doors to the crematorium. The concept of burning a corpse is so horrific to our sanitised sensibilities that we shroud it in mystery.
To say death is everywhere in India is a cliché and a falsehood. There is nowhere on earth where death isn’t everywhere. But it seems that the openness of death and dying in India is what brings life into sharper focus there than anywhere else.
Find the cheapest flights to India at FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.21.2008 | 9:17 am | European Destinations
Madrid. The very name conjures up images of old Spain – historical architecture, bustling streets, culture and festivity. Spain’s capital city is the perfect place for an autumn getaway. Luckily, October is one of the best times to visit Madrid, along with spring time. The weather is really pleasant and the streets won’t be crowded with tourists. May time has the Fiesta de la Comunidad de Madrid and the Fiestas de San Isidro, and the Easter period is when the spectacular Holy Week parades happen.
Travelling around Madrid is easy on the metro, and it’s a great city to walk around. Taxis are always available if you can’t find a metro station. Car hire isn’t the best idea, as in any capital city.
The Moorish quarter of Madrid is one of the oldest districts in the city, and part of the 9th century city wall still stands here. In summer, the district comes to life with theatre shows.
Undoubtedly one of Madrid’s most famous attractions is the Museo del Prado which holds a massive collection of artwork - not both Spanish and international. The gallery is housed in a building that was once a natural history museum, but was converted to a museum 1819. There are over 7000 works, including paintings by Velazquez, Goya, and da Ribera.
The Parque de Buen Retiro is a lovely place to spend an autumn afternoon. Some of the most beautiful public gardens in Madrid, there’s a big lake in the centre of the park where you can hire a boat. Alfonso XII’s mausoleum is on the lakeside, along with an Egyptian fountain decorated with a sphinx.
Madrid’s nightlife is just as varied and boisterous as any big European city, but there’s no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bars to suit every taste and budget.
The city is served by Barajas Airport, one of the busiest in the world. Travelling into Madrid is easy - a metro connection was added recently.
Find the cheapest flights to Madria at FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.21.2008 | 9:15 am | Pensive Traveller
Not having developed the patience to travel on the Shanghai Metro, I get around mostly by cab. (Walking isn’t really an option, as five minutes treading the pavements here makes your eyes sting, your lungs seize, and a film of grime settles on your skin.) I’m not yet earning a Chinese wage, so a fourteen kuai taxi trip into town doesn’t seem too pricey when thinking in British pounds.
Over the past six weeks I’ve developed something of a love-hate relationship with the bonbon-coloured cabs. I live on a busy six-lane road which is one of the main arteries into the city centre, and each time I want to leave my district I have to navigate the forest of bicycles and cars to reach the other side of the road where the taxis are. Once that’s accomplished, the fun has only just started. There are thousands of taxis in Shanghai – probably millions – but sometimes there isn’t a single free one to be seen. Other times three drive up in a row. This means that it’s incredibly difficult to gauge what time to set off – should I set aside an hour for the journey in case I can’t find a free cab, or ten minutes, on the off-chance that I get one quickly?
And then there are the drivers. I’ve taken at least two cabs a day since I’ve been here, and experienced the full gamut of taxi driver personalities. Most notable was a guy who had clearly been taught English by a mischievous expat or traveller. He came out with the most ribald filth, all punctuated with a smile that made me think he really had no idea what he was saying.
The friendly drivers make the journey into town interesting, especially through the inevitable traffic jams. If I’m lucky enough to get a loquacious one, it’s a free twenty-minute Mandarin lesson.
I’ve heard horror stories from friends about sleazy drivers with wandering hands, but this has never happened to me – touch wood. The worst I’ve had was a cantankerous, fierce-looking guy who proclaimed that the hundred kuai note I gave him was fake. I had no other money, resulting in a stand-off that had me wondering for a split second about sprinting off into the night. Such was the driver’s ire that he pretended not to understand my Mandarin (at least, I think he was pretending…) when I asked him to take me to a bank. Eventually he got it, and watched me like a hawk as I drew out a handful of hundreds. Then he spent a torturous five minutes sifting through them to find one that wasn’t fake.
Maybe I should start taking the Metro…
For the cheapest flights to China check FlightComparison.co.uk.
10.21.2008 | 9:11 am | World Destinations
New England has always been a popular destination for autumn vacations. The sight of trees bursting into a tapestry of orange, yellow and red attracts tourists from all over the world. And what better base to see New England’s beauty than Boston?
A staid city on first glance, look below the surface to discover a haven of art, culture and history. Some people say that Boston is the cradle of American history, and this, along with Harvard University – America’s finest – make for an atmosphere of erudition and quiet confidence.
Visitors arrive into Logan International Airport, and most get into town on the T subway system. Boston’s subway is definitely the best way of getting around the city. The oldest subway system in the USA, it is one of the easiest to navigate, and most pleasant to use. This is why we recommend that you don’t bother renting a car. Traffic can sometimes be a bit of an issue in Boston, with many long-running road works.
With its locations in the north-eastern part of the USA, Boston has freezing winters and temperate summers. Autumn and spring are the best times to visit, but summer is fun too, with festivals like Chowderfest and Harborfest happening.
If you’re interested in American history, you’ll find plenty to amuse you in Boston, as it is replete with historic sites and landmarks. Take a visit to Beacon Hill where the Massachusetts State House is located. It was built in 1798 and sits in beautiful landscaped gardens.
Across the Charles River from Boston proper is Cambridge. Technically a town in its own right, Bostonians treat it as part of the city, especially for the kudos of Harvard and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology which are both located there. Stop by Harvard Square and soak up the intelligence – its bookstores, cafes and shops are where students and academics spend their free time. The architecture of the Harvard campus is really impressive.
The North End area is the Italian part of Boston, and also the location of revolutionary Paul Revere’s house - the oldest in Boston. The Old North Church here played an important part in the Revolutionary War.
A Boston must-see is Faneuil Hall – a complex of old trade buildings which has been transformed into restaurants, shops and markets.
If you want something a little more modern, head to the New England Aquarium. Alternatively, the MIT Museum in Cambridge is a great way to spend an afternoon. One notable exhibit is ‘Light Fantastic’ - the largest exhibition of holograms in the world, plus an artificial intelligence display where visitors can interact with robots.
Boston nightlife reflects the city’s slightly schizophrenic personality – college town (buzzing clubs and bars), historic and cultural centre (theatre and live music) and multicultural stronghold (Irish pubs and Italian delis). For full listings see Boston Nightclub News.
Find the cheapest flights to Boston at FlightComparison.co.uk.
« Previous Entries
